As my plane was preparing to land in my town, I looked out the window, as I always do, watching the landscape get larger and larger. Inadvertently, my pupils dilated and my heart swelled as I took in how beautiful everything was. I watched us sail over the rolling farmlands, the woods, the lakes, all the lush greenery that is so abundant this time of year. I can't help it. I feel so betrayed by my state these days, but I continue to love it so much.
When I first moved here 8 years ago, I was coming from southern California. I wouldn't call it an unfriendly part of the country, but it was fairly anonymous. I lived in a big city and didn't know any of my neighbors. Thanksgiving dinners were more about elegance than community. I locked the door to my apartment to go running. Heck, I locked the door to take out the trash.
Then I came here, and found myself frequently surprised by little interactions and events that reminded me how different things were. When I went to the corner store, the man behind the counter chatted with me, welcomed me to the area, and gave me advice. When I passed somebody on the sidewalk, or even in the street in my car, they'd wave. Even if I didn't know them. People had me over for dinner, people I hardly knew. I sat in retired colleague's kitchen as his wife prepared salmon and asparagus, chatting about what the Wednesday noon siren means (preparing for tornados). When I bought my house, the owners apologized at the closing because they didn't have the key to the front door. "We haven't locked it in 9 years, and we couldn't find it to save our lives," they told me. After the closing, I rushed over to my new house. I went into the kitchen. I opened the fridge. There, in the shining, spotlessly clean refrigerator, was a box with a bow on it. Inside the box I found pastries from the local pastry shop, and a note saying, "Enjoy your new home!"
And I met Jake, right away, and he offered to show me around town, right away. "How nice," I thought. "A new friend already! People are so friendly here!"
I was charmed, I was seduced by the culture of this new place. I marveled at things that I hadn't known since childhood, like fireflies in the evening, and cicadas at night. I fell in love with my new surroundings and with Jake at the same time. They became intertwined. As summer wound its way into autumn I marveled at how he and his family and friends all knew the same German drinking songs -- and they sang them, together, loudly, at Oktoberfest. I marveled at how they all knew how to polka, and actually did it. More, I marveled at the close family network I observed, where cousins and aunts and uncles all traveled to get together for people's birthdays and anniversaries.
It was charming that the local NPR station carried not only Talk of the Nation, but also statewide shows on insects and native plants, on home repair, on wildlife. I felt like I had wandered into a scene from A Prairie Home Companion. I still feel that way. And of course, yes, all of this is just a caricature. The state I live in and its people are vastly more complicated than the rosy picture I like to imagine. But I ignorantly allowed myself to live with the oversimplified version, because it suited me.
During my first fall term here, the other new faculty and I formed a cohort and we would go out for drinks and dinner, getting to know one another and our new town. All of us were from either the east coast or the west coast. All of the other faculty complained a lot about our town; its backwardness, its smallness, its provincial ways. And in many ways, it
is all of those things. We are a small city of 230,000 people. It feels bigger than it is culturally, because we have both the flagship university and the state capitol here, but it was definitely the smallest city I had lived in. I too had wondered how I would react to it. Would I feel stifled? My fellow faculty members felt stifled, and they complained. Somehow it offended me. I felt protective of my new home state, maybe because it was wrapped up in Jake, a native of the state, with his peculiar mannerisms and regional speech patterns.
What I found was that the pace of life flowed differently, and you had to slow down to notice and appreciate what came up in that flow. The rhythm of the seasons gradually took hold of me. Jake's grandfather brought us brussels sprouts in October. We ate squash and soups in the fall, we ate tomatoes and peppers in the summer. In the winter, we hole up, turning inwards, working more. In the spring, everybody emerges, we become more social. We go out more, we hold parties, we sit outside on cafe patios. We barbecue. We spend winter afternoons making snowmen and ice skating, and we drink hot chocolate. We spend summer weekends at the lake, fishing and swimming, drifting on the pontoon boat as we let our fingers lazily drag across the surface of the water.
How can I not love all of this?
But oversimplified stereotypes cannot endure, and of course there is another side to this state. It's a side I've mostly ignored, which is easy to do in our liberal oasis of a town, but it grew harder and harder to ignore, and became impossible to ignore after the failed recall.
This is the side where friends of friends think it's okay to make racist jokes. It's the side where nobody in the extended family will use my last name. It's the side where my undergraduates, who are always white, aren't interested in learning about ways to better connect to students of color in their own classrooms. It's the side where vegetarian means you still eat fish and shrimp, where a college education is uncommon, and where people describe visitors from the state south of us with words like "bastards".
In the past year there was a This American Life episode about the political upheaval in our state. The general theme of the episode was that people here are so nice, and the upheaval threatens that niceness. They interviewed some people who were campaigning against a local candidate, and they asked those people to discuss the candidate they were trying to oust. The campaigners said, "We don't think she's right for the office. I mean, she's a good mom..." The interviewer noted how remarkable that is, that the strongest thing they could say was that they thought she wasn't quite right, but had to couple that statement with the remark that they thought she was a good mom.
They recorded a contentious meeting that turned nasty, with hecklers, and then you hear one woman in the background call out, "We're NICE in [our state]!"
But what I've witnessed hasn't been nice. Recently we traveled through small towns to attend a wedding. Every other house had a pro governor sign in front of it. There was a giant billboard with the message that our current governor is working for the entire state, not just the "privileged few". That's how teachers are characterized here now. As the privileged few. That is not nice. In a small town 45 minutes south of us, somebody distributed anonymous flyers attacking teachers in general. That is not nice. None of this is
nice.
Intellectually, I understand that of course our state is deeply complex, like any. The farmers who traveled down to the capitol to march on the square come from the same state as their neighbors who thought there was nothing wrong with repealing the equal pay act. The people on my street who shoveled my sidewalk and brought me meals come from the same state as the guy who called in to the local radio program complaining that state workers are spoiled and need to pay their fair share. The family members who gave me treasured clothing and jewelry items belonging to my husband's grandmother -- before Jake and I were even married -- are the same family members who cannot completely hide their racism, their misogyny, and their anti-semitism.
Ours is a community oriented, family oriented culture. I didn't grow up in a culture like that. I have been more welcomed and integrated into Jake's complicated, deeply flawed extended family than I ever was in my
own biological family. I grew up in the relative anonymity of the west coast, and then I moved to a town where nobody is anonymous. Everybody knows your story, and that is simultaneously comforting and stifling. I feel so angry, so, so angry at what has happened over the past year and a half. When I reflect on it, I think that I feel much more angry than I would have felt over the outcome of a similar election when I lived in, say, California, because here it feels deeply personal. And I, like many like me who have adopted this place as our own, allowed myself to feel a sense of betrayal. I allowed myself to become seduced by some aspects of this place, without fully understanding everything about the complex, intricate culture and history of the people who live here.
You can't stay in love with a fantasy forever. Eventually, the real parts come out, and the story is messier than whatever rosy picture you concocted. And that's where I am now. Sad, really sad, and still angry as well. But that hasn't made me stop loving.